Omdurman after a year and a half of war

23 October 2024

A year and a half after the war in Sudan, life for millions of civilians trapped in the capital’s sister city, Omdurman, has turned into a nightmare. The fires of war have reduced vital infrastructure to ashes, leaving behind nothing but ruins. The following is a personal account from our correspondent in Omdurman.

The historic city of Omdurman is struggling to regain its life and vibrancy after enduring prolonged months of war between the army and the Rapid Support Forces (RSF). Omdurman, located on the western bank of the Nile, is one of the three pillars of the capital.

Fate turned the city once known as the “House of Peace” into a ghost town of despair and death, especially in the early months of the war. Battles were intense in many neighbourhoods, with infrastructure and historical sites suffering significant damage.

Battle for control

War began in Omdurman after the events at Khartoum Sports City in mid-April last year. The army’s airforce targeted Sarqab camp in Omdurman, which housed a large number of RSF troops. This initial strike decreased the intensity of battles in Omdurman in the early months. The conflict continued though, shifting control of several areas back and forth.

The RSF aimed to seize strategic military zones in Omdurman, such as Wadi Saydna, home to the air force base and the engineers’ corps. Meanwhile, intense battles took place between the RSF and the army in areas close to the engineers’ corps, like the neighbourhoods of Bant, Abbasiya, and Al-Mourada, which the army managed to reclaim. This extended the army’s control to the Doha neighbourhood.

The current map of control in Omdurman after a year and a half of fighting shows significant changes. Neutral or contested areas have either fallen under one party’s control or endured continuous battles, often ending in the same grim fate.

The army currently holds the less affected neighbourhoods of Al-Thawra and has launched offensive operations to regain parts of Old Omdurman, which remained under RSF control until March 2024. Following battles at the radio and television headquarters in March, the army extended its influence from the northern to central parts of western Omdurman.

The RSF, for its part, held parts of Old Omdurman, including Al-Umdah, Wad Nobawi, Abrouf, Al-Mulazimin, Beit Al-Mal, and the popular and main markets, with its biggest achievement being its stronghold on the radio and television headquarters in Al-Mulazimin.

However, clashes continue in the vicinity of Al-Mulazimin and nearby areas, with the RSF launching persistent attacks towards Karari. 

Destruction

Walking down Al-Douma Street, one hardly recognises the place, which used to be bustling with life. Bullet holes are splattered against landmarks. Continuous fighting has led to massive destruction in Old Omdurman, with homes and historic sites alike suffering damage.

Religious landmarks, such as the Sheikh Al-Fatih Qareeb Allah Mosque, have not been spared. The mosque’s façade is riddled with bullet holes, and artillery shells have damaged large parts of its structure. Nevertheless, the sound of prayer calls continues from its partially destroyed minaret, following recent restoration and power reconnection efforts.

Although St. George’s Church in the Al-Arab neighbourhood also experienced some theft and partial damage, locals are currently leading renovations.

Glimmer of hope

Amidst the hardships, the people of Omdurman cling firmly to their city, refusing to abandon it even after a year and a half of conflict. Despite the dire circumstances, they strive to light a candle rather than just curse the darkness. Community initiatives have emerged, such as traditional public kitchens known as “takkayas,” where volunteers provide meals to the hungry.

Initiatives to restore essential services, such as water and electricity, and clear unexploded war remnants have complemented these efforts. Additionally, vital service hubs like the civil registry office continue to operate in the city.

Ongoing shelling

While moving around Omdurman, it is almost impossible to spend a day without hearing the roar of artillery shells either being launched or hitting the city. Residents, including children, have become adept at distinguishing between different types of explosions and often joke, asking, “Incoming or outgoing?”

The army targets RSF positions in Khartoum, Bahri, and Omdurman using heavy artillery and drone strikes. Meanwhile, the RSF, which initially lacked heavy artillery, acquired long-range rocket launchers about four months into the war.

The ongoing artillery exchange has resulted in casualties, particularly in civilian-populated areas like Sabreen Market and Al-Thawra’s transportation hub. Hospitals like Nou Hospital have also been hit, causing further losses among patients, their families, and volunteers.

Displaced

With the relative calm in the city, several shelters have been established for displaced families from Omdurman, Khartoum, Bahri, and Tuti Island. However, conditions in these shelters vary, with elderly, sick, and wounded residents facing the most challenging circumstances.

The influx of returnees from other war-torn cities like Sennar has also added to the city’s overcrowding. The main streets of Karari—Al-Wadi, Al-Nass, and Al-Shanqeeti—are now bustling with activity as life slowly returns to the area.

In all its brutality, war reshapes the lives of those it touches, with children being its greatest victims. In Omdurman, children have replaced traditional games with digging “defences” in the ground and wielding makeshift, wooden guns. Their faces have lost the innocence of childhood, replaced by a somberness that reflects their new reality.

Several initiatives are working to restore these children’s natural innocence by creating safe spaces in shelters and providing academic support.